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Hi Curious,
Yes, i know, unfortunately I was not yet able to fix this properly. (i can’t test on pc i only have a mac)
but i will try to fix this as soon as possible (i hoped for miicraft to add some of this to their software)
i will let you know as soon as i get something to work 🙂
cheers,
Oliver
hmm, i don’t have these problems,
if you are using 7 seconds the resin should get hard try with higher times like 8 or even 10 seconds
these can be set directly in the printer software
also make sure that u use the RGB file that is specific to the printer, to make sure the light is even.
the resin quality could slightly vary so changing the timing could help …
hi pieralberto76, i am still struggeling with the microsoft side … mac works well.
the ‘not sticking’ issue:
– it also helps adding some scratches to the surface or sand it a little (the larger the surface the better)
– make sure the base plate is printed
– make sure the surface is clean (use alcohole to clean it, if you touched it with your finger it will not stick well …)
– make sure you keep the 7 seconds (i get perfect results with this)
hi pieralberto76,
there is a readme on github that should explain how to use the software.
https://github.com/brainlessboy/miilayer
remember its beta and should only bridge the time until miicraft has solved the supporting structure missing feature.
also on PC i still get some issues (bugz) currently it best works on osx, give me a few days to fix that .
cheers,
this is great, thanks for sharing 🙂
Hi, sorry to hear this, it’t written in java so it should actually work, i only tested this on MAC (sorry) thought this would run the same way, since i am not using any native functions at all …
i let you know when i solved the issues …
!! be careful with this!! otherwise it spills the resin into the machine!!!
1 make sure to tighten the screws very well
2 make sure to flatten the platic-ring inside the machine with your finger before inserting the filter and the glass …
good luck
Hey Maesebit! here you go
– the layers are images (PNG) with only black and white … you can paint on them. However this is allot of work considering that for a 5cm statue you need 500 layers at 100 micron thickness …
i made a little simple software supporting the manual painting of supporting structures. i tried the automatic stuff, but you endup with allot of pollution in your model, that is why i turned to manual structure painting.
the process is simple, just travel up to the layer you want, add a supporting dots, presse generate and the dots are automatically painted in all layers bellow the one you choose.
in a second step, connect the dot every 10th layer, make sure they are not in one line (think more of an eiffel tower this will give them better solidity)
removing them is a little like velkro, they become crisp and easy to remove 🙂
i have tuned the size already so they are as thin as the printer would allow 🙂
the tool is a java programm, just download the jar file and doubbleklick it (any os will do)
https://github.com/brainlessboy/miilayer
just let me know if you need any help of if you find bugz 😉
cheers,
enjoy!
the new cleaning function is great!
dont start cleaninig the resin out of the tank, just hit the clean resin menu, wait a while, it will harden the residual resin so you can remove it as one block, after that there is less to clean 🙂
this is far less messy ! you can do it two times if there is lots of resin left in the tank.
after that use a soft paper towel and plastic gloves to clean the rest.
use plastic gloves!! they protect the teflon film to get scratched by your fingernails!! its also good advice not to get too much of the resin on your fingers (its not dangerous at all but it smells and looks dangerous)make sure you clean your resin tank properly! even if the resin will not dry in air, it will make your teflon film last longer!
I got my replacement machine (thank you miicraft) and printed on 🙂 obviously something close to the resin tank serioiusly broke, probably some plastic seal that prevents the resin from leaving the tank. so be very very carefull when you change the teflon filter or be very carefull not to break it 🙂 at all, just carefully clean it with a tissue after you are done printing, its a 5 to 10 minutes procedure worth doing carefully! this is probabyl the most fragile part of it … (with all this i still love the printer, the results are great!)
I also got results specially with the new release (version 6 i think) where the screen preview is possible (seeing a feedback image in the printer is very helpfull since pc screen configuration can be complicated. I also got my first results out! 🙂
there is one little thing that comes in the way sometimes, the COM port seems to get jammed and leves the MII unaccessible, this only happens on first startup after that all is good, if this happens you need to restart your pc without restarting the MII
What would be cool next is to make a simulation of the print and have it as feedback in the printer, i do get strange artefacts during printing and i suspect the projection to add those probably blinks from the graphic card or something similar …
short update: miicraft enhanced there software with a screen preview, it is now possible to see visual feedback in the printerbed!! i think it is needless to say that this feature is only intended to use on an resin-empty-clean printer bed!! but is very helpful during installation and configuration of your printer. (documentation is getting better and better)
OK, I have to apologies, i got support big time! miicraft is coming up with an update of there software which will include a method to make sure the projector actually projects something 🙂
very nice and helpful folks at miicraft, don’t hesitate to write them directly, since it is a young company give them a chance!
I could talk to support today (again very helpful 🙂
1) you will never see any thing on the screen since it projects a very dark blue so don’t relay on visuals.
2) if you don’t get any results (printed models) makes sure you screen configuration only displays two screens (your main screen) and number two screen (used by Miicraft)
3) most important (unfortunately not documented) the pico projector within Miicraft can only display standard SVGA and will need to be set to either 1024×768 or 800×600
i am not sure which of the two resolution is correct (the support was not specific on this one) … 800 or 1024 both can be set in the virtual TriggerDrive screen … just try both if the rest of you printer works 🙂 or MiiTeam will give us confirmation on what is recommended … since it is a pico projector i believe 800 is a better guess …
just sharing some insights on my ResinSpill desaster: (the guys at miicraft where very helpfull explaining all the bits, thansk guys!) how ever it si not yet clear why it happened, but here are a few first recommendations:
– i replaced the teflon filter, if you do this make sure you replace it exactly the same way as it was before (i did but it spilled) … glass under the teflon film, after the replacement observe the printer!! and put it on top of news-paper or on a surface you can clean easely …
– but!! it is not clear if this is the reason for the spill i had! (this is not a normal case!)
– observe the printer!!! don’t let it run on its own!! so you can prevent large spills (probably after one or two prints without spills it will probably be ok for ever)
– no spill happened when i got the printer so the cause could be the replacement so it could be the two release screws have to be tightened more or to the maximum! (this is not sure, this is just an assumption)
– take your time never rush and try to keep smiling even if you fail! (and if you are not sure ask support thes guys are really helpfull)
– in my case resin got under the teflon-film and onto the mirror (very bad according to miicraft), this is puzzling the tech’s at miicraft, so this is definietly not a common case …
– both the glass and the teflon film can be cleaned with alcohol (be carefull with the teflon-film) also make sure to examin it to make sure there are no kracks or hohles.
